Armour
Livery Coat
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15th Century, Wars of the Roses.
The men under the command of Lord John Clifford (''The Butcher'') wear a White livery coat emblazoned with the Red Wyvern. It is thought to of been based on the livery his fathers men wore at the Siege of Pontoise 1437. Siege of Pontoise 1437 The first Months of this Year the Cold was so excessive that it seemed to leave the Generals on both no desire to form early Enterprise till it should be abated. Meanwhile Talbot who found nothing impossible reaped a considerable Advantage from the Security of the French caused by the Sharpness of the Season. On Shrove Tuesday at Night he scaled Pontoise by help of the Ditches being frozen (4) and carried it whilst the Garrison and Townsmen were wholly intent upon their Diversions. The taking of this important Place Was a great Blow to King Charles Especially it very much annoyed the Parisians who were exposed to the continual Incursions of the new English Garrison to the very Gates of Paris (4) And by causing his People to be clothed in White; by which means they were not discovered the Ground being then covered with Snow, Hall relates this as done by John Lord Clifford fol. 138 Ref: pg 560 The history of England, Volume 1 By Rapin de Thoyras, 1743 |
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The Battle of Flodden, 1513
Under the command of Lord Henry Clifford (''The Shepherd Lord''), The colour of the livery coats changed, to half red, half gold baring a red wvyern. The banner also changed. From a contemporary drawing, the streamer of Lord Henry's banner was half argent, half gold, bearing a red dragon with an extra head at its tail-end (heraldically an amphisbaena), the six Vipont annulets, and his motto 'Desormais' twice on transverse bands. Ref: pg53 The Shepherd lord of Skipton Castle, Richard T Spence, 1994 |
Eating Equipment
Right we recommend that every member supplies their own basic, eating equipment.
This generally consists Bowl, Spoon, Knife and a Cup.
Here is some guidance....
Bowls generally are made of turned wood.
Spoons, pewter, wooden, horn, metal.
Your eating Knife should be sharp and kept in a scabbard when not in use also all sharps need to be removed before mustering for drill.
Cups/Mugs, are normally ceramic and glazed, though Horn and wooden could be used.
Glassware was a high status Item so not a normal thing for the common soldier.
If in doubt ask!
Right we recommend that every member supplies their own basic, eating equipment.
This generally consists Bowl, Spoon, Knife and a Cup.
Here is some guidance....
Bowls generally are made of turned wood.
Spoons, pewter, wooden, horn, metal.
Your eating Knife should be sharp and kept in a scabbard when not in use also all sharps need to be removed before mustering for drill.
Cups/Mugs, are normally ceramic and glazed, though Horn and wooden could be used.
Glassware was a high status Item so not a normal thing for the common soldier.
If in doubt ask!
Women's Kit [minimum requirements shoes, shift, kirtle and headtie (cloth).]
Shift-
- Requirement: In linen (or calico) in medieval style in natural/cream range of shades or possibly bleached white.
- Guidance: A woman's shift is very similar to a man's shirt being a loose un-tailored garment; the only real difference is in length. The shift comes anywhere between mid-calf and ankle depending on the length of your kirtle (if you have your shift too long it gets really filthy) The shift needs to be reasonably well fitted into the armpit to enable you to wear your kirtle over the top comfortably.
Shifts beneath ordinary women’s kirtles are never sleeveless, women did not appear bare armed when minus their kirtle sleeves. Sleeves are always long although they can be rolled up to work If you want to have the feel of short sleeves but the look of rolled up shift sleeves you could make them just long (and wide) enough to fold up a couple of times and create an illusion. As we do so many of our events in the heat of the summer this is a useful compromise. The neckline of most shifts is plain bound and un-gathered and is fairly high often showing above the kirtle neckline.
Kirtle-
-Requirement: A full length dress worn over the shift. In medieval style made of wool or linen
[NOT a separate skirt and bodice/jacket and NOT open to the ground at the front this is a later, 16th century style]
-Guidance: The medieval shape is lean, long and smooth, rather a shame for those of us who are short and fat. Shaping is achieved by fitted curved seams and flared panels – not modern darts.
For ordinary women the kirtle is a complete dress (for very posh women only it can just be an underskirt worn with and showing under a tight fitting full length gown). The kirtle can be waisted or cut in full-length panels. Fullness is achieved by flared panels – 4,6,7,8 even 12 or more.
A kirtle can be front, back or side opening (edge to edge with no overlap) and can be fastened by lacing or hooks, more rarely by buttons. Kirtles for pregnant women are managed by progressively relaxing/letting out lacing at both sides – a possible adaptation to an existing garment if you don’t want to make a new one specially. Lacing should be single, straight or slanting (occasionally herringboned) but not crossed.
A tip: front lacing is not flattering if you are full busted unless you stiffen the edge of the opening from waist to neck (e.g. with ‘Rigilene’ or even a length of piping cord) to prevent wrinkling. However, while more comfortable/flattering back lacing probably does indicate higher status – as you do need someone else to help you dress. Length depends on status, too: if you're middle class or better the hem reaches the ground, if you're common only to the ankles or even slightly above.
Sleeves are invariably fitted but full length sleeves were often buttoned or laced to the elbow so they can be pinned or rolled up for work. Alternatively, they can be short with a lower section that un-laces or unbuttons from a short fixed upper sleeve to remove completely. Sometimes the entire sleeve may be removable if it is tied to the shoulder by points rather than being sewn in to the armhole. Sleeves can also be sewn in at the shoulder but left free under the arm for greater mobility (and coolness) On many sleeves the seam line often goes down the back of the arm rather than underneath it (rather like on a modern jacket or blazer) as this, too, gives greater freedom of movement. Perhaps some of the extremely tight women’s sleeves were also cut on the bias/diagonal to give some stretch.
Even when kirtle sleeves are removed women do not appear bare armed because of the sleeves of the shift.
Necklines are lowish and quite wide showing the shift beneath.
Head-wear-
-Requirement: Head-covering is a must for women. Only dishonoured women indicted or convicted of a crime go bare headed. Girls of marriageable age (say 12 to 18) wear their hair uncovered but even they generally wear some sort of frontlet/headband, bec or a small caul/tightly fitting coif.
The simplest headgear is a cloth tied in a suitably medieval way, a plain folded square tied behind the head is better than nothing. There are too many variations to go into here but you could always just look for one you like and ask its occupant for the shape required and the formula.
Very young/virginal women and girls can get away with a simple frontlet band that actually leaves most of the head uncovered.
Many styles – ‘rabbit’ hats, tied and open hoods, hennins and pillbox hoods – show a considerable amount of hair at the back by later in the 15th century. This could either be plaited or loose and doesn't seem to be dependent on age.Tied hats and hoods of a fabric weight suitable to the season are more flattering (but remember to cover your modern hairstyle with a cloth if you choose an open hood). Most of the slightly more elaborate and raised styles need to be firmly pinned down to a foundation band (or to lots of suitably dressed hair if you have it!)
Belts, Purses and Pouches-
-Requirement: Belts, purses and pouches should be made of leather or suitable fabric and of medieval style -ABSOLUTELY no modern handbags!
Larger bags can be of canvas, linen (or calico) Even picnic boxes can be properly concealed in a well fitting bag.
An emergency sack can be sorted quickly by just tying the diagonally opposite corners of a piece of cloth over the top of the stuff to be concealed – like a “spotty hanky on a stick” bundle!
Baskets are particularly useful for transporting a multitude of goods. It’s best to choose a traditional style in reasonably heavy hazel or willow (lovely cheap Chinese ones abound at the moment) as most lightweight cane looks too modern. – A simple cloth tucked over the top of a basket will conceal any amount of otherwise intrusive modern stuff.
-Guidance: Belts (which could also be tablet or braid woven) for women are usually narrow and if decorative can be worn low on the hips. Again, they are left long and worn tied through at the front.
Like men, a large - probably even larger - number of items can be hung from the waist e.g.
purses, shears, keys, sewing kits etc. (in this case the belt must be tighter to support them). Such small items remain on the kirtle belt even when a gown is worn. The inconvenience is overcome by hanging items low and by hitching up the gown or sometimes by leaving sections of mid front seams unstitched to allow access by poking your hands through.
- Requirement: In linen (or calico) in medieval style in natural/cream range of shades or possibly bleached white.
- Guidance: A woman's shift is very similar to a man's shirt being a loose un-tailored garment; the only real difference is in length. The shift comes anywhere between mid-calf and ankle depending on the length of your kirtle (if you have your shift too long it gets really filthy) The shift needs to be reasonably well fitted into the armpit to enable you to wear your kirtle over the top comfortably.
Shifts beneath ordinary women’s kirtles are never sleeveless, women did not appear bare armed when minus their kirtle sleeves. Sleeves are always long although they can be rolled up to work If you want to have the feel of short sleeves but the look of rolled up shift sleeves you could make them just long (and wide) enough to fold up a couple of times and create an illusion. As we do so many of our events in the heat of the summer this is a useful compromise. The neckline of most shifts is plain bound and un-gathered and is fairly high often showing above the kirtle neckline.
Kirtle-
-Requirement: A full length dress worn over the shift. In medieval style made of wool or linen
[NOT a separate skirt and bodice/jacket and NOT open to the ground at the front this is a later, 16th century style]
-Guidance: The medieval shape is lean, long and smooth, rather a shame for those of us who are short and fat. Shaping is achieved by fitted curved seams and flared panels – not modern darts.
For ordinary women the kirtle is a complete dress (for very posh women only it can just be an underskirt worn with and showing under a tight fitting full length gown). The kirtle can be waisted or cut in full-length panels. Fullness is achieved by flared panels – 4,6,7,8 even 12 or more.
A kirtle can be front, back or side opening (edge to edge with no overlap) and can be fastened by lacing or hooks, more rarely by buttons. Kirtles for pregnant women are managed by progressively relaxing/letting out lacing at both sides – a possible adaptation to an existing garment if you don’t want to make a new one specially. Lacing should be single, straight or slanting (occasionally herringboned) but not crossed.
A tip: front lacing is not flattering if you are full busted unless you stiffen the edge of the opening from waist to neck (e.g. with ‘Rigilene’ or even a length of piping cord) to prevent wrinkling. However, while more comfortable/flattering back lacing probably does indicate higher status – as you do need someone else to help you dress. Length depends on status, too: if you're middle class or better the hem reaches the ground, if you're common only to the ankles or even slightly above.
Sleeves are invariably fitted but full length sleeves were often buttoned or laced to the elbow so they can be pinned or rolled up for work. Alternatively, they can be short with a lower section that un-laces or unbuttons from a short fixed upper sleeve to remove completely. Sometimes the entire sleeve may be removable if it is tied to the shoulder by points rather than being sewn in to the armhole. Sleeves can also be sewn in at the shoulder but left free under the arm for greater mobility (and coolness) On many sleeves the seam line often goes down the back of the arm rather than underneath it (rather like on a modern jacket or blazer) as this, too, gives greater freedom of movement. Perhaps some of the extremely tight women’s sleeves were also cut on the bias/diagonal to give some stretch.
Even when kirtle sleeves are removed women do not appear bare armed because of the sleeves of the shift.
Necklines are lowish and quite wide showing the shift beneath.
Head-wear-
-Requirement: Head-covering is a must for women. Only dishonoured women indicted or convicted of a crime go bare headed. Girls of marriageable age (say 12 to 18) wear their hair uncovered but even they generally wear some sort of frontlet/headband, bec or a small caul/tightly fitting coif.
- Headties (cloths) may be of varying weights of linen (or calico) as are tied hats, which are self-lined.
- Hoods can be linen (or calico) or wool lined with these.
The simplest headgear is a cloth tied in a suitably medieval way, a plain folded square tied behind the head is better than nothing. There are too many variations to go into here but you could always just look for one you like and ask its occupant for the shape required and the formula.
Very young/virginal women and girls can get away with a simple frontlet band that actually leaves most of the head uncovered.
Many styles – ‘rabbit’ hats, tied and open hoods, hennins and pillbox hoods – show a considerable amount of hair at the back by later in the 15th century. This could either be plaited or loose and doesn't seem to be dependent on age.Tied hats and hoods of a fabric weight suitable to the season are more flattering (but remember to cover your modern hairstyle with a cloth if you choose an open hood). Most of the slightly more elaborate and raised styles need to be firmly pinned down to a foundation band (or to lots of suitably dressed hair if you have it!)
Belts, Purses and Pouches-
-Requirement: Belts, purses and pouches should be made of leather or suitable fabric and of medieval style -ABSOLUTELY no modern handbags!
Larger bags can be of canvas, linen (or calico) Even picnic boxes can be properly concealed in a well fitting bag.
An emergency sack can be sorted quickly by just tying the diagonally opposite corners of a piece of cloth over the top of the stuff to be concealed – like a “spotty hanky on a stick” bundle!
Baskets are particularly useful for transporting a multitude of goods. It’s best to choose a traditional style in reasonably heavy hazel or willow (lovely cheap Chinese ones abound at the moment) as most lightweight cane looks too modern. – A simple cloth tucked over the top of a basket will conceal any amount of otherwise intrusive modern stuff.
-Guidance: Belts (which could also be tablet or braid woven) for women are usually narrow and if decorative can be worn low on the hips. Again, they are left long and worn tied through at the front.
Like men, a large - probably even larger - number of items can be hung from the waist e.g.
purses, shears, keys, sewing kits etc. (in this case the belt must be tighter to support them). Such small items remain on the kirtle belt even when a gown is worn. The inconvenience is overcome by hanging items low and by hitching up the gown or sometimes by leaving sections of mid front seams unstitched to allow access by poking your hands through.
Men's Kit [For men the minimum kit is typically shoes, hat, shirt and hose]
Braies
-Requirement: In linen (or calico) usually in the natural/beige range of colour (or possibly bleached white) and with a drawstring waist.
-Guidance: Medieval boxer short type underpants vital under split hose (where they are cut appropriately longer in the leg) You may wish to incorporate a tie in the leg seam of longer braies to secure them around the leg and prevent ‘riding up with wear’. Desirable even under joined hose - in case these tear! - and in any case more comfortable under wool.
There was also a bikini style that seems to have tied at the sides.
Shirt
- Requirement: In linen (or calico) in medieval style. Usually in natural/beige colour range or possibly bleached white.
- Guidance: These garments are of an extremely simple un-tailored cut, full in the body and sleeve, possibly gathered at neck and wrist. Most shirts have a plain round neck; smarter ones may have a small ‘stand’ a bit like that on a modern collarless shirt. In order to get it over your head [without having a very baggy neckline] a front opening is required. Although this can be fastened either with a suitable cord tie or appropriate button the latter may dig into you under armour. Buttons at the wrist of the shirt may also be uncomfortable – especially under an archers’ bracer.
Hose
- Requirement: Tight fitting to the leg, made from either wool or linen.
- Guidance: For preference choose a good quality velour type wool, closely woven but with plenty of stretch on the cross. (You can test/compare cloth on the roll by pulling gently with both hands along the diagonal) Whatever your fabric it MUST be cut on the cross or bias (this means at 45 degrees to the woven selvedge edge) in order to give you the necessary stretch for movement.
That said there are two distinct types:
Either type of hose may be lined if you wish but this may affect their stretchiness. You are probably better off wearing a pair of longish braies underneath. This will have the same effect as part lining but without either the hassle or loss of freedom of movement.
Pourpoint
- Requirement: In medieval style made of wool or linen.
- Guidance: A sleeveless plain necked sort of waistcoat often with a peplum or skirt section (shorter than that on the doublet) The skirt has eyelet holes for the attachment of hose points. These eyelets should be at the top of the skirt just below the waist if your hose come quite high but could be lower down if your hose are lower/shallower. The front closure, which often overlaps, can also be by points or by hidden hooks (buttons may be uncomfortably lumpy once you put a doublet or cote on as well). The pourpoint should be firmly lined in linen (or calico) A useful garment for hot weather allowing the doublet to be discarded.
Doublet
- Requirement: In medieval style made of wool.
- Guidance: A short, front opening, fitted jacket type garment - waisted and with a short peplum/base (skirt) The peplum often has eyelet holes (for attaching the hose points) sited at a level suitable for the hose. The skirt of the doublet is never very long, say 9”/23cm, and so doesn't really look right if lengthened. If you do want something longer to cover your bum then go for a tunic or longer tunic cote. The doublet should be lined with plain or dyed linen (or calico ) a contrast colour looks smart. The outer of the doublet could be all one colour or part-coloured in two – in a variety of configurations! Then as now a way of making do with not quite enough cloth of either colour for the complete garment.
The front closure may be by points (laces) hidden hooks or medieval style buttons. Buttons were sometimes placed in sets – pairs, trios, etc.
Sleeves can be plain or made fuller at the head by gathering or cartridge pleating sleeved style with a full upper There is also a puff but fitted lower sleeve. A vent can be left at the wrist for either lacing or buttons – however, buttons can be uncomfortable, especially under an archer’s bracer.
Headgear-
-Requirement: In medieval style and in a fabric appropriate to the type eg. linen (or calico) for a coif, wool felt or fabric for hats, lined wool for hoods, etc.
Some sort of headgear must be worn not only to cover our out of place modern coiffure but also to follow the custom of the time we depict.
-Guidance: This is the area where you can really express your individuality - the variety of medieval headgear is considerable and a good hat does round off your outfit.
Belts, Bags etc
-Requirement: In medieval style and usually made of leather, belts could also be of tablet woven braid Purses and pouches could also be of a suitable cloth. For larger campaign type bags use linen, canvas (or calico)
-Guidance: Belts were worn in varying widths depending on the weight of the article they supported, they were often worn long being looped over at the front and left to dangle.
Pouches and bags come in a myriad of styles - from frame purses to bollock pouches - another area to express personal choice. Medieval man can seem festooned with innumerable items hanging about the waist; remember, they had no pockets.
-Requirement: In linen (or calico) usually in the natural/beige range of colour (or possibly bleached white) and with a drawstring waist.
-Guidance: Medieval boxer short type underpants vital under split hose (where they are cut appropriately longer in the leg) You may wish to incorporate a tie in the leg seam of longer braies to secure them around the leg and prevent ‘riding up with wear’. Desirable even under joined hose - in case these tear! - and in any case more comfortable under wool.
There was also a bikini style that seems to have tied at the sides.
Shirt
- Requirement: In linen (or calico) in medieval style. Usually in natural/beige colour range or possibly bleached white.
- Guidance: These garments are of an extremely simple un-tailored cut, full in the body and sleeve, possibly gathered at neck and wrist. Most shirts have a plain round neck; smarter ones may have a small ‘stand’ a bit like that on a modern collarless shirt. In order to get it over your head [without having a very baggy neckline] a front opening is required. Although this can be fastened either with a suitable cord tie or appropriate button the latter may dig into you under armour. Buttons at the wrist of the shirt may also be uncomfortable – especially under an archers’ bracer.
Hose
- Requirement: Tight fitting to the leg, made from either wool or linen.
- Guidance: For preference choose a good quality velour type wool, closely woven but with plenty of stretch on the cross. (You can test/compare cloth on the roll by pulling gently with both hands along the diagonal) Whatever your fabric it MUST be cut on the cross or bias (this means at 45 degrees to the woven selvedge edge) in order to give you the necessary stretch for movement.
That said there are two distinct types:
- Split - two separate legs held up by points (laces) tied over a belt at the waist or joined to the pourpoint/doublet – or even to a jack - by points or buttons. These hose are generally appropriate to the earlier part of our period and are often worn with a longer tunic rather than a very short doublet. However, they do also appear later worn by labourers/soldiers for hard work or where great agility is needed so you could also wear them attached to a doublet, etc.
- Joined - a pair of legs joined at the fork usually by a gusset and with a codpiece flap at the front. The codpiece should be well fitted into the crotch but not padded. Cutting the cloth on the diagonal is even more important for joined hose. You can double stitch over your back seams (obviously, only once you are happy with the fit) to make them more durable. Either machine stitch or do a medium size backstitch by hand.
Either type of hose may be lined if you wish but this may affect their stretchiness. You are probably better off wearing a pair of longish braies underneath. This will have the same effect as part lining but without either the hassle or loss of freedom of movement.
Pourpoint
- Requirement: In medieval style made of wool or linen.
- Guidance: A sleeveless plain necked sort of waistcoat often with a peplum or skirt section (shorter than that on the doublet) The skirt has eyelet holes for the attachment of hose points. These eyelets should be at the top of the skirt just below the waist if your hose come quite high but could be lower down if your hose are lower/shallower. The front closure, which often overlaps, can also be by points or by hidden hooks (buttons may be uncomfortably lumpy once you put a doublet or cote on as well). The pourpoint should be firmly lined in linen (or calico) A useful garment for hot weather allowing the doublet to be discarded.
Doublet
- Requirement: In medieval style made of wool.
- Guidance: A short, front opening, fitted jacket type garment - waisted and with a short peplum/base (skirt) The peplum often has eyelet holes (for attaching the hose points) sited at a level suitable for the hose. The skirt of the doublet is never very long, say 9”/23cm, and so doesn't really look right if lengthened. If you do want something longer to cover your bum then go for a tunic or longer tunic cote. The doublet should be lined with plain or dyed linen (or calico ) a contrast colour looks smart. The outer of the doublet could be all one colour or part-coloured in two – in a variety of configurations! Then as now a way of making do with not quite enough cloth of either colour for the complete garment.
The front closure may be by points (laces) hidden hooks or medieval style buttons. Buttons were sometimes placed in sets – pairs, trios, etc.
Sleeves can be plain or made fuller at the head by gathering or cartridge pleating sleeved style with a full upper There is also a puff but fitted lower sleeve. A vent can be left at the wrist for either lacing or buttons – however, buttons can be uncomfortable, especially under an archer’s bracer.
Headgear-
-Requirement: In medieval style and in a fabric appropriate to the type eg. linen (or calico) for a coif, wool felt or fabric for hats, lined wool for hoods, etc.
Some sort of headgear must be worn not only to cover our out of place modern coiffure but also to follow the custom of the time we depict.
-Guidance: This is the area where you can really express your individuality - the variety of medieval headgear is considerable and a good hat does round off your outfit.
Belts, Bags etc
-Requirement: In medieval style and usually made of leather, belts could also be of tablet woven braid Purses and pouches could also be of a suitable cloth. For larger campaign type bags use linen, canvas (or calico)
-Guidance: Belts were worn in varying widths depending on the weight of the article they supported, they were often worn long being looped over at the front and left to dangle.
Pouches and bags come in a myriad of styles - from frame purses to bollock pouches - another area to express personal choice. Medieval man can seem festooned with innumerable items hanging about the waist; remember, they had no pockets.
Children's Kit
Boys-
Even late in our period young boys are quite likely to wear split hose and a longish tunic cut fairly loose. This type of outfit will obviously last a growing youth for far longer than a fitted joined hose/pourpoint/doublet one will. On very hot days boys could wear braies and loose shirt for coolness – rather like their fathers at work. Shirts should not be belted as this looks decidedly Hollywood. Belts are worn usually with pouch and purse even for quite young boys. Shoes and boots are just smaller versions of adults’ or pattens can be worn.
Headgear should be worn and is most usually a coif or when cold a hood with or without a liripipe. Many of the less flamboyant hats worn by men are also suitable.
From their teens boys dress as men, younger if middling to posh.
Girls-
The difference between girls’ and womens’ dress is very slight especially if you're middle class where even small girls can have full length skirts - poorer girls would have shorter skirts like their mothers.
Baggy shifts don’t present such a problem but a suddenly outgrown kirtle at the beginning of the season is alarming!
There are several contemporary illustrations of girls who seem to have their kirtles let out and down to allow for growth:
1. The kirtle can lace at the sides (instead or as well as back or front) and simply be let out by lacing progressively more loosely.
2. Front lacing can similarly be allowed to spread open. A (probably oblong) piece of fabric – sometimes in contrast colour to the kirtle – is placed behind the spread lacing as a sort of stomacher. This could be simply tacked to the inside of the kirtle on one side and tucked into the other and possibly fixed by an appropriate badge. (Allow plenty of overlap at base and both sides)
3. Although length is not crucial, especially for poorer girls, some girl’s kirtles do seem to have been let down. A plain broad band (NO frills or flounces!) is added to the hem, perhaps up to 6” deep. This band needs to be cut to the same curve as the kirtle hem and may be either the same or a contrast colour.
4. It is not possible to tell whether contrast colour lower sleeves or any fully take-out sleeves are just the fashion of the time or perhaps replacements for
those that became too short or too tight.
An instant revamp for last season’s outgrown kirtle could use all these ideas – Open lacing over a contrast piece, plus matching hem band addition and
new/lower sleeves could be done both quickly and cheaply and look quite special. Head coverings tend to be simple tied cloths, ‘rabbit’ hats or coifs. Young girls of marriageable age (not merely below it) may wear their long hair loose and uncovered but still usually have some sort of suggestion of a headdress (e.g. a frontlet or band) at the front. This really means girls in their teens – don’t kid yourself! In practice hair was probably covered anyway for non-posh girls in order to keep it clean while working or out of doors.
Further Information and for more kit Ideas please read the Wars of the Roses Federation Standard kit booklet at the bottom of the page.
Even late in our period young boys are quite likely to wear split hose and a longish tunic cut fairly loose. This type of outfit will obviously last a growing youth for far longer than a fitted joined hose/pourpoint/doublet one will. On very hot days boys could wear braies and loose shirt for coolness – rather like their fathers at work. Shirts should not be belted as this looks decidedly Hollywood. Belts are worn usually with pouch and purse even for quite young boys. Shoes and boots are just smaller versions of adults’ or pattens can be worn.
Headgear should be worn and is most usually a coif or when cold a hood with or without a liripipe. Many of the less flamboyant hats worn by men are also suitable.
From their teens boys dress as men, younger if middling to posh.
Girls-
The difference between girls’ and womens’ dress is very slight especially if you're middle class where even small girls can have full length skirts - poorer girls would have shorter skirts like their mothers.
Baggy shifts don’t present such a problem but a suddenly outgrown kirtle at the beginning of the season is alarming!
There are several contemporary illustrations of girls who seem to have their kirtles let out and down to allow for growth:
1. The kirtle can lace at the sides (instead or as well as back or front) and simply be let out by lacing progressively more loosely.
2. Front lacing can similarly be allowed to spread open. A (probably oblong) piece of fabric – sometimes in contrast colour to the kirtle – is placed behind the spread lacing as a sort of stomacher. This could be simply tacked to the inside of the kirtle on one side and tucked into the other and possibly fixed by an appropriate badge. (Allow plenty of overlap at base and both sides)
3. Although length is not crucial, especially for poorer girls, some girl’s kirtles do seem to have been let down. A plain broad band (NO frills or flounces!) is added to the hem, perhaps up to 6” deep. This band needs to be cut to the same curve as the kirtle hem and may be either the same or a contrast colour.
4. It is not possible to tell whether contrast colour lower sleeves or any fully take-out sleeves are just the fashion of the time or perhaps replacements for
those that became too short or too tight.
An instant revamp for last season’s outgrown kirtle could use all these ideas – Open lacing over a contrast piece, plus matching hem band addition and
new/lower sleeves could be done both quickly and cheaply and look quite special. Head coverings tend to be simple tied cloths, ‘rabbit’ hats or coifs. Young girls of marriageable age (not merely below it) may wear their long hair loose and uncovered but still usually have some sort of suggestion of a headdress (e.g. a frontlet or band) at the front. This really means girls in their teens – don’t kid yourself! In practice hair was probably covered anyway for non-posh girls in order to keep it clean while working or out of doors.
Further Information and for more kit Ideas please read the Wars of the Roses Federation Standard kit booklet at the bottom of the page.
Footwear
Flat soled pointed or semi pointed shoes or boots made of leather in the medieval style.
Wars of the Roses Federation Standard Dress Kit
As we are members of the Wars of the Roses Federation, we are expected to abide by the Wars of the Roses Federation Dress Standard's.
| wotrf-kit-standard.pdf |
